Over the last few weeks since my last post there has been quite a bit of change both good and bad. Simply I’ve competed in a couple of comps and started a new training plan all very exciting!
The indoor comp scene is just starting in the UK and I’m so psyched to be in the U.K. this year and to be able to get a chance to compete in them again. Blokfest in the main series in London with 5 rounds starting in November. It is truly an awesome event! Along with that loads of other walls are holding their annual and winter boulder comps that I love getting involved with. The last two I managed to get involved with were the blocbuster comp at The Depot Nottingham and Vauxwall’s bi-monthly comp Vauxcomp.
First up was blocbuster in Nottingham. The event started at 10am, not to bad if you live near but traveling up from London meant a 5:30am start from my house. I drove up with a friend for the beginning of the comp and excitement was high! We arrived in good time and started to get psyched up for the comp by the time it started I was raring to go. I’d looked around the problems and they all look great and doable! Energy levels were great surprisingly considering the early start though this could have been the couple of double espressos I had on the way up and upon reaching Nottingham!!! #coffeelife The comp started bang on 10 and I immediately threw myself into the problems. Starting off with a couple of easy problems to settle the mind after warming up and then cracking straight on with some of the harder problems. Annoyingly I think I jumped on one of the harder ones a little too early dropping the first attempt where I really shouldn’t have. I felt like I competed well but came unstuck on the problems that involved dynamic movement or particularly strengthy moves. Unfortunately I didn’t qualify for finals but excited to stick about to watch some seriously strong climbers battle it out! Then I crashed, energy that is. I felt awful and no matter what I did I could get my body to feel better. Really really annoying, maybe it was the early start lack of extra energy or caffeine wearing off I’m not sure but it wasn’t good. This is something I need to work on to keep better consistent energy levels. The finals were a good watch though and I was super pleased to see Orrin take the win with an epic performance. Super strong!
Great day at Blocbuster at @depotnottingham today. Happy with 235/300 but still came unstuck with the shouldery problems. I know what I need to improve….. psyched to see @orrincoley take the victory!!! @madrockclimbing @nihilclothing @pipandnut #climbing #klettern #escalade #escalada #competition #nottingham #blocbuster #madrock #nihiliclimbing #nihilclothing #pipandnut #rockclimbing #bouldering #shoulders #needtoimprove #strength #strong #indoor #indoorclimbing #bouldercomp
Next up just a couple of days later was Vauxcomp! This was in the evening so after a long day at work. I was initially worried about how I was going to get enough energy to compete well here as after a days work I usually feel very drained even if it is only mentally. I finished work a little early a 6pm and headed straight to the wall with a glass of milk and banana in hand! Scoffing them down on the tube on the way I was ready to get started and climb. The blocs were cool but all on the comp wall so mostly overhanging which means powerful. Uh oh!!!!! Happily though I managed to get through lots of the problems flashing some of the ones I didn’t think I would even touch. On the other hand I came unstuck yet again on the dynamic problems most notably the jump start were I couldn’t jump high enough for the start holds. Gutted! I did manage it in the end but by doing it by sticking the start hold with one hand instead of the intended two. Crazy but it worked, just…… I finish 5 overall which I am damn happy with. Something to improve upon but encouraging considering we’re I am at the moment!
So that’s the good but unfortunately there is some bad….. I’ve just started a new training plan, as I said in my last post, to work on strength mainly in the shoulders. The first week went really well, it was hard but I felt good! I had a good rest weekend and went out for a nice rest day cycle to box hill on the Sunday. Getting up Monday morning expecting to feel fresh and ready to smash the next weeks training was something that sadly didn’t happen. As I jumped out of bed at 6am to head to the wall I felt a niggle in my back. Ahhh just morning niggles I thought, it is early! I headed to the wall but it got no better and over the course of the week the pain between my shoulder blades got even worse. Gutted I’d somehow picked up an injury. I visited an osteopath on Friday morning to get it checked out. She informed me that she thought it was just muscular and not a trapped nerve or slipped disc in my spine where the sharp stabby pain was. Rest and self massage is what was prescribed. Rest, rest, what rest you say…. Oh god this is going to be hard. Anyone who know me knows I find it really hard to rest and not do anything so I can see the next few weeks being challenging but it is something I have to do if I want to compete in any of the upcoming comps I have planed. Maybe I can still go to the wall without my shoes and stretch, what do you think? How to you keep you mind happy while injured but still wanting to be active?
Anyway enough from me for now, fingers crossed this weekend and next week of rest will cure my back and then I can start back with the training and focus back on the winter comps coming up. I know dealing with a psyched mind but broken body is going to be something I will struggle with but something I have to learn to do!!!
Oh and one silly thing to leave you with, here is a silly campus challenge I managed on the fingerboard. Check it! Just gotta do it from the 6mm now!
Silly challenges @vauxwallclimbing this morning 💪😂 on the @eva_lopez_rivera transgression board! Campus ladders 7-20 and back down as far as you can go!!!! Nearly got the 6-20 but put a nasty split in my finger. Doh!!! Thanks to @joeypoloni for the video. @madrockclimbing @nihilclothing @nihilclothing_espana @climbskin.uk @pipandnut #climbing #escalade #escalada #training #bouldering #london #lovetraining #challenge #fingerboard #transgression #madrock #nihilclothing #nihilclimbing #pipandnut #split #vauxwall #morning #board #silly #fun #climbinglife #rockclimbing #gym #arrampicata #alpinismo #bloc